Yafa Cafe – Instagram

A young man on Brooklyn’s Fourth Avenue is brewing coffee the old way. In fact, the Yafa Café pour-over, which goes for $7.00, may just be the oldest way.

One of the generally-recognized birthplaces of coffee is the poorest country in the Middle East—Yemen—and Hakim Sulaimani is attempting to bring about a Yemeni renaissance at his Sunset Park coffee shop.

According to British historians, the story goes that long ago, a shepherd noticed his goats would display simply boundless energy and restlessness after eating a particular red berry. The shepherd found also that consuming it allowed him to pray all night without ever feeling tired.

Fast forward to modern times, and very little good news of any sort comes out of Yemen. The Saudi war in the country has been the world’s worst humanitarian crisis for half a decade. Beyond that, Yemen is such an unknown part of the world for so many, that even Hakim, the son of a Yemeni immigrant from the…



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